For 10 years, Café Flora chef Janine Doran has been specializing in cooking delicious vegetarian and vegan dishes. A fan of locally farmed products, seasonal produce, world cuisine, and exciting spice combinations, Chef Doran leads her own one-woman fight against vegetarian food's bad rap for bland taste. The secret of her success lies in her playful attitude toward spices and seasonings that make her meals dynamic. Fresh garden herbs, chili sauce, miso, and coconut oil are just some of the ingredients that Chef Doran uses to create vegan dishes delicious enough to satisfy both vegetarian and meat-eating clientele alike. Since her start at South Seattle Community College, Chef Doran's journey of trial and error has made her what she is today: an award-winning chef and a protector of tofu's good name. Always excited to experiment in new forms of health-conscious cuisine, Chef Doran has been focusing on the raw food movement, adding some raw items to her repertoire. This innovative and creative chef is changing the way Seattle eats—for the better!

Chef Spotlight:
Janine Doran

Do you have companion animals?

I have a cat; his name is Fred. I adopted him from the humane society. I wish I could have adopted all of them, but Fred needs to be the top cat, if you know what I mean.

How long have you been a chef?

I have been a chef for about 10 years, but I have been cooking for much longer than that.

What type of cuisine do you focus on?

I focus on world cuisine, using seasonal produce from our local farmers.

Have you or has your restaurant received any awards?

• Seattle Weekly's Top 100 Favorite Restaurants (2001, 2002, 2003, 2005, 2006)
• Seattle Magazine: Best Vegetarian Restaurant (1993-2000, 2007)
• Northwest Source/nwsource.com: Best Vegetarian Food (2005, 2006, 2007)
• Evening Magazine's Best of Western Washington: Best Vegetarian Food (2003, 2004, 2005, 2006)

Do you have a specialty?

Vegetarian and vegan/gluten-free dishes.

What are the most important elements in cooking great vegetarian cuisine?

First and foremost is using fresh, high-quality ingredients, preferably in season. It's also important to focus on flavors and textures in a dish, the visual aspect of the dish (how it will be presented), and nutritional content.

What is the key to getting meat-eaters to enjoy vegetarian food?

One thought I have regarding getting meat-eaters to enjoy vegetarian food is not to pretend to be something we are not. I would also say that some of the best food around the world just happens to be vegetarian. We offer a range of exciting and innovative dishes that can appeal to many people. I would like to think that after nonvegetarians eat at our restaurant, they will say that it was a great meal, and whether it had meat or not was not so much the issue.

What, in your opinion, does the future of plant-based cuisine hold?

I certainly believe it is more mainstream than it has been in the past. Just walk into any grocery store and you will see soy and rice milk, silken tofu, and sections that focus on vegetarian products. Not too long ago, if you asked grocers to help you locate one of those products, they wouldn't have a clue what you were talking about. The movement to eat more local, organic produce is always evolving. More and more, the raw food movement seems to be growing, and I see this as the next wave of how to create and enjoy plant-based cuisine in a healthful way. I have dabbled in it and will continue to explore and expand my repertoire of innovative ways to create tasty dishes.

Do you have a favorite cooking method?

I love many different cooking methods—it depends on what kind of texture and flavor you are looking for, but I do have to say that I tend to do a lot of roasting and grilling.

Where did you train to become a chef?

I trained in South Seattle Community College's culinary arts program. Then I worked at various restaurants and hotels, gaining skills in various stations and cuisines. I also continue to learn by reading and by working with people who share their skills and knowledge. Of course, there is also trial and error.

What are your favorite ingredients to work with?

I work with such a variety of items, from interesting spice combinations from other cultures to fresh local produce. I love all coconut products, which is what comes to mind today.

In your opinion, what vegetarian dish or type of food is most frequently poorly prepared and why?

I think the type of food that is poorly prepared is tofu. It just seems to have developed a bad rap! People need to realize that tofu is a vehicle for flavor; in and of itself, it can seem rather bland and dull, but the cooking method used and the flavorings added are really the key to enjoying this food.

If you were stranded on a deserted island and could only eat one kind of ethnic food, what would it be?

I can only pick one? OK, I would have to say Indian. I just love the flavors, textures, and variety of condiments that Indian food offers. I never get tired of it.

Do vegetarian restaurants face any special obstacles that meat-based restaurants don't have to face?

Vegetarian restaurants have a unique challenge; we create every component of our dishes. We have to consider where the protein is in the dish and whether it is nutritionally balanced. Sometimes the protein in our dishes is a combination of items. It also takes more labor to prep all the components of vegetarian meals.

Can you give us one great cooking tip for aspiring vegetarian chefs?

Don't be afraid to play. Don't chain yourself to recipes—make changes, do your own thing. Just be open to the continued exploration of products and new ideas.

What are some ingredients that you recommend vegetarians and vegans have in their kitchens?

I recommend a good array of spices, nuts, vinegars, and fresh garden herbs (if you can grow your own) as well as nutritional yeast, silken tofu, coconut milk, garlic, ginger, miso, Bragg's liquid aminos, tamari sauce, Sriracha chili sauce, and beans. Expand your grains—try quinoa (delicious, and high in protein) and a variety of different kinds of rice. Expand on oils—instead of just olive, try a nut oil or a flavorful flax oil. That's a good start.

Are there any newer vegetarian products on the market that you are particularly fond of?

While making some raw food preparations, I discovered coconut oil. It's a flavorful oil that's good for cooking too. I don't buy many prepared items, but here goes: Vegan cream cheese is good in baking and sauce-making for desserts and entrées. Agave nectar is an alternative to refined sugar. I love silken tofu.

What's the best way to prepare tofu?

Here are a couple of quick ideas for those who may not have worked with it. I like to use extra-firm organic tofu, cut into slices. Take your favorite marinade (I like making a wet jerk spice mixture) and let the tofu marinate for at least two hours—overnight is even better. Grill the tofu until grill marks appear on both sides, and then place the tofu back into the marinade. It's ready to use in a dish. Another way to infuse the flavor into the tofu is to bake it in a marinade so that as it cooks, it absorbs the flavor. Sometimes it's good to press the tofu to get any excess liquid out of it before you marinate it—it will absorb the flavor even more. You can use the slices in a sandwich, cut up the slices and do a veggie-tofu scramble, or cut them into cubes for a skewer. Ah, the possibilities.

Oaxaca Tacos
By Janine Doran

1 1/2 lbs. russet potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 Tbsp. margarine
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup (2 oz.) shredded vegan smoked mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup (2 oz.) shredded vegan cheddar cheese
Big pinch red pepper flakes
Vegetable oil for preparing the tortillas
8 thin corn tortillas
1 small red or green bell pepper, seeds removed and cut into fine dice
Toothpicks

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Place the potatoes in a pot with water to cover. Cook, covered, until tender, about 20 to 40 minutes. Drain and mash with the margarine and salt. Cool completely.

In a small bowl, mix the "cheeses" with the red pepper flakes and set aside.

Heat 1/8 inch of oil in a skillet over medium heat until hot. Cook 1 corn tortilla until soft, about 8 to 10 seconds on each side.*

Put the tortilla on a plate and cover with foil to keep warm. Cook the rest of the tortillas in the oil, covering with foil when done to keep warm.

Place each tortilla on a flat surface. Using a 1/3-cup measure, put a scoop of mashed potatoes in the middle of each tortilla. Pat the potatoes with your hand to flatten them a little. Sprinkle with 1 Tbsp. of the diced bell pepper and 2 Tbsp. of the "cheese" mixture.

Roll each tortilla into a large tube. Use 1 or 2 toothpicks to "sew" the top flap down, so that the tortilla will stay rolled up.

Put the tortillas in a roasting pan or on a baking sheet, toothpicks facing up. Bake until the "cheese" has melted and the tortillas start to brown and crisp around the edges, about 15 to 20 minutes.

*Note: Do not let the tortillas get crisp; they need to be oily so that they get crisp when roasted in the oven.

Makes 8 servings

Curried Lentil Pâté
By Janine Doran

1 cup red lentils, rinsed
2 cups water
1 bay leaf
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium red onion, diced
1 Tbsp. chopped garlic
2 Tbsp. mirin (rice wine)
1 Tbsp. curry powder
1 Tbsp. light miso (Japanese bean paste)
1/2 cup salted pistachio nuts, toasted
1/2 tsp. salt

Put the lentils in a saucepan with the water and bay leaf and bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, until the lentils are very soft and most of the water has been absorbed, about 15 to 20 minutes, adding more water if necessary. Discard the bay leaf. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

While the lentils are cooking, heat the olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes, stirring once or twice.

Turn down the heat to low and cook the onion for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the onion starts to stick, add 1 to 2 Tbsp. water (or cooking sherry, if you have it) and stir to remove any bits of onion from the bottom of the pan. When done, the onion should be various shades of brown, soft, and sweet.

Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the mirin and curry powder, mixing well. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Put the lentils, the onion mixture, and the remaining ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and chill before serving.

Serve with a basket of pappadams, pita wedges, or crackers.

Makes 2 cups

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